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When I had the pleasure of living a block from Curry Row in Manhattan, vindaloos and koftas were part of my steady diet. I love the robust flavors of this cuisine, and consider finding good Indian food in South Florida the equivalent of hitting the culinary lottery. So I was excited to check out Gandhi’s, which recently opened in Lake Worth.
When we walked into the restaurant recently for dinner, I was confused to see a glass display case filled with costume jewelry. Was this the “store” the website referred to? We later found out the vestibule is a work in progress that will eventually offer a full line of traditional Indian fashion. We were escorted to a dining room on the right, as the manager explained it is for fine-dining dinner service. A casual lunch of Indian street food is offered on the opposite side. Also on the casual side is a carry-out counter, fresh juice bar and chai station.
A black leather banquette lines an entire wall with black clothed tables. Black leather booths fill the other side of the dimly lit room. Mosaic-tiled mirrors add needed décor and brightness to the space. An all-male wait staff greets tables in black kurtas, long Indian tunics. Burgundy scarves and headdresses accessorize the authentic garb. While perusing the menu, we were treated to a basket of crispy, cumin-scented papadum and a trio of onion, mint and tamarind chutneys, the Indian equivalent to bread service.
We heeded the manager’s advice and began with an order of gobi Manchurian ($9.99), crispy cauliflower florets in a tangy sauce with a fresh cilantro garnish. The tomato-based garlic sauce was delicious, with a pleasant kick, though it was a bit heavy-handed and masked the flavor of the cauliflower. Veggie samosa ($6.99), oversize triangles of flaky, fried pastry were served with a mint-cilantro sauce that complemented the dense mashed potato and pea filling. Coconut-peppered shrimp ($11.99), served on papri, a bite-size cracker, were full of flavor but overcooked.
I remained hopeful that main courses would rise to the occasion, and ordered lamb chops ($28.99). A generous portion of five yogurt-spiced marinated chops teepeed a mix of broccoli, cauliflower and carrots. Basmati rice with a confetti of green peas and carrots completed the plate. Like the shrimp, the chops were tasty, but overshadowed by arriving beyond the desired temperature and less than tender. Other signature dishes include Gandhi’s shrimp ($24.99), coated with chickpea flour and fried, nargasi salmon ($28.99), marinated with ginger-garlic paste and served with sautéed vegetables and shaslik chicken ($22.99), marinated with cumin powder and lemon juice and pan-fried.
Chicken tikka masala ($19.99) arrived at the table in an attractive hammered-copper dish. The tandoor-cooked boneless chicken was moist and tender. A side of rice was perfect for soaking up the creamy tomato gravy. The spice and heat of all dishes can be adjusted to personal taste.
Kashmiri dum aloo ( $18.99), potatoes stuffed with housemade cottage cheese, or paneer, and served in a tomato-based pasanda sauce with cashews satisfied my vegetarian dining partner. Vegans will appreciate the dal tadka ($14.99), yellow lentils garnished with curry leaves, served with a floral cardamom-scented basmati rice that makes a hearty savory porridge. Other vegetarian and vegan offerings include spinach kofta ($18.99), spinach and vegetable croquettes, baingan bharta ($14.99), mashed grilled eggplant cooked with fresh tomatoes, garlic and ginger, and navratan korma ($18.99), mixed vegetables in almond sauce.
There are many options when it comes to biryanis ($17.99-$20.99), basmati rice cooked with mint, cumin, saffron and homemade biryani masala. Choose from chicken, lamb, goat, shrimp or vegetable.
An assortment of breads ($3.50-$5.99), including naan, parantha and roti, is offered. Not listed on the menu but available is poori ($4.99), fried, unleavened dough that is steam-powered into puffy golden brown balls and served two to an order. They are hard to resist.
Service is attentive throughout the meal. Yet the indication of fine dining is thwarted with serving bowls stacked atop one another as plates of leftovers are scraped into to-go containers at the table. An easy faux-pas fix, but not characteristic of a “fine dining” experience.
Gulab jamun ($6.99), the Indian version of a doughnut hole is reminiscent in taste to a funnel cake. Although it is a classic recipe, I find it hard to get past the overly sweet syrup that the spongy balls are floating in. Rice pudding ($6.99) had a strange mouth feel, as if the kernels broke down during the cooking process. The loose consistency needed more cooking time, heavy cream or an increased rice to milk ratio. Pistachio kulfi ($8.99), a traditional Indian ice cream, with a sweetened condensed milk base, was creamy and dense. It was deemed the table’s favorite dessert.
By the time we left the restaurant, the dining room was full, with a wait outside the door. We stopped at the hostess stand for a spoonful of colorful candy-coated fennel and cumin seeds, known for their digestive and breath-freshening qualities. The herbaceous jimmies were flavored with rose water, which caught me off-guard. I’m convinced that you have to have grown up with this distinct flavor to truly appreciate it.
Gandhi’s tag line is, “Where food and people matter.” I believe that. The wait staff is focused and genuine. Management is hands-on and go out of their way to accommodate requests. Owner Raj Vohra personally checked on tables throughout the night. This is Vohra and his wife Sherry’s first foray into the restaurant business.
“Love and passion for our culture and a desire to share that with others is the driving force behind Gandhi’s,” Sherry Vohra says.
I plan to return in a few months after they iron out the kinks in the kitchen. All the elements for success are there. Now, if they could just find a sitar player for the window.
Gandhi’s
4075 S. State Road 7, Suite F2B, Lake Worth
561-328-9441, MyGandhis.com
Cuisine: Indian
Cost: Moderate-expensive
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily
Reservations: Accepted
Credit cards: All major
Bar: Beer and wine
Sound level: Conversational
Outside smoking: No
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Parking: Lot
