If you have a good sniffer, or the wind is blowing just right, you’ll probably smell Mississippi Sweets before you see it.
The perfumed air acts as an aromatic calling card, enticing you and your drooling palate to sample barbecue with a nicely nuanced smokiness.
I’m not sure just how many years have passed since the last time I dropped by for a review, but it was long enough ago to say that I found an enlarged facility this time. What used to be an elbow-rubbing spot has transformed into a couple of rooms, though the atmosphere is still cozy. What isn’t so cozy is the indifferent service. Tables are covered in practical red vinyl with lots of kitschy stuff happening in between tons of accolades posted on walls.
Attitude and regional anomalies aside, the barbecue can still do battle with almost any other in town, though the ribs top the list. Their perfect toothy resistance always leads to a big finish – piles of gnawed clean bones. A wide range of sandwiches includes pulled pork, barbecued beef and chicken, burgers and farm-raised catfish. They come with assorted accouterments that include Swiss cheese, grilled onions, Thousand Island dressing, pepper jack cheese and Creole sauce, as well as salads.
Enjoying zippy smoke-infused Brunswick stew ($3.49 per cup; $5.59 for a crock), is easy with its chicken, potatoes, veggies, okra and a spicy punch that hits you in the back of the throat. Or, have chicken noodle soup ($2.49 per cup; $3.59 per crock) with good stock, oodles of chicken and not too many noodles. I also recommend the Biloxi bleu salad ($7.99), a colorful meal-size salad outfitted with assorted greens, crumbled blue cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, onions, bacon and rousing vinaigrette.
When it comes to ribs, full slabs of baby backs are $16.99; half slabs $11.99. Of course, you can sample combinations – ribs and barbecue chicken ($14.99), ribs and hot wings ($15.29), a beef and pork platter ($12.59), etc. Of the two sides that come with dinners, I’ll take the homemade applesauce with hints of cinnamon, and big squares of sweet, cakey cornbread. Celery seed-studded coleslaw doesn’t rise above average, but the baked beans are fine. The house sweet potato fries arrived disappointingly soggy and overcooked.
Other meats are a testimonial to the care lavished on them. Mounds of deliciously moist pulled pork and long strands of juicy dark beef automatically doused with barbecue sauce in the kitchen make a hearty platter. Each table is equipped with bottles of sauce – one mustard based with a slightly sweet background, one tomato based and the third a proprietary chipotle hot sauce – all very good.
Whether the kitchen veils the two thick and juicy catfish fillets in crumb crusts or blackening spices ($12.59), they’re excellent. I like them blackened for flavor and heat. Unfortunately, an out-of-commission rotisserie eliminated one tempting-sounding item from the small menu – seasoned slow-cooked spit-roasted chicken.
We found a slice of Key lime pie too sweet with a disappointingly soggy graham cracker crust, preferring the 2-inch high apple crisp with thinly sliced apples and streusel topping. They’re $4.25 each.
Hopefully by the time you chicken fans read this, the rotisserie will be back in action. If not, the barbecue will hold you over. That is, after all, the essential thing to eat here.
Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
Contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks at or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel
INFORMATIONAL BOX:
*** (out of four stars)
Cuisine: American
2399 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton
561-394-6779
Cost: inexpensive
Credit cards: MC, V
Hours: lunch, dinner Monday-Friday; dinner Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: not accepted
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: quiet to moderate
Smoking: prohibited
Children’s facilities: boosters, high chairs
Wheelchair accessible: yes
