He last showed at Paris Fashion Week in 2020, often preferring to present his clothes at other locations, including the sand dunes at Camargue in the south of France this summer, which drew admiring guests like Victoria Beckham.
“I dream of one day reaching Jacquemus’ level of creativity and organising similar shows,” Beckham told Le Monde.
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The strategy is working.
“Jacquemus is a phenomenon. His recent collaboration with Nike was one of the biggest successes of the year, as was the opening of his boutique. The rhythm of his collections mirrors his direct relationship with consumers,” said Serge Carreira, luxury specialist at Sciences Po Paris.
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The brand has grown 10-fold since before the pandemic, now worth some US$212 million, according to figures seen by specialist news site Business of Fashion, with a goal of hitting US$531 million by 2025.
With several vacancies at the big houses, Jacquemus is highly courted. But so far he has turned down all offers, arguing that he “already has a big house: Jacquemus”.
The item that has put him on the map is undoubtedly the Chiquito micro-bag – an increasingly common sight on the arms of the fashion-conscious, right up to the likes of Rihanna and Kim Kardashian.
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“It’s a rather exceptional tour de force,” said Carreira.
He is also a savvy user of social media, sharing his life with his 5 million Instagram followers, including his celeb-packed wedding to PR consultant Marco Maestri this summer.
“He’s a celeb designer, we always know what he’s doing, he’s constantly documenting his daily life,” added Benjamin Simmenauer, a professor at the French Fashion Institute.
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Brands like to recruit people like that. It creates a connection with the public.
Originally from Provence, Jacquemus came to Paris in 2009 and held his first fashion week show three years later. This September, he opened his first boutique in the French capital.
He describes his first shows – notable for girls in tuxedos and flip-flops – as “French and naive … made with nothing but very brutal energy”.
“He brought a smile to fashion, which is rarely seen,” said Loïc Prigent, a fashion filmmaker.
